I was busy with some other things the last few days so I didn’t have time to work on my engine but yesterday after work I decided to go at it. I called my friend Tracey to come over and help me label my parts bags and help me disassemble the motor. I first took of the exhaust manifold and then followed by the intake manifold. Once those were off the engine was easier to maneuver on the engine stand.

I then unbolted the cylinder head and placed it in a plastic tub to drain any oil that was still in it. Once the cylinder head was off it really started rolling then. We unbolted all the external brackets and accessories of the block and drained the oil. Once the oil was drained I flipped the engine over and started to pull the oil pan bolts off with Tracey’s help. After that Tracey pulled off the water pump and the front engine mounting bracket and I pulled off the oil pump and the rear seal bracket.

I then started to loosen the main cap bolts using the cross pattern. I only loosened them up a little at a time and once I got to the last one, I went back to the first bolt and loosened it a little more. I repeated the process till the bolts were loose and then removed them. I tapped the main cap lighty with a piece of wood  on each side to loosen it up and then pulled it off and set it on the side.

The last part was taking out the pistons and connecting rods. I loosened up the connecting rod bolts and pulled the end caps off one at a time. I then cut 2 pieces of old rubber fuel line and pushed them onto the connecting rod bolts so when the pistons were removed through the bottom the cylinders were not scratched.

As you can see in the images of the cylinder walls below, they still have a descent cross hatch pattern. They have no sign of any rig on the top part of the cylinder, so thats a good sign.

The tear down was a success and now the next step will be the machine shop and figuring out what I need to order for connecting rods and piston sizes.

My D16Z6 block is now disassembled and ready for the machine shop.