Getting the rings to the proper spec was actually easier then I thought, all I did was oil up the cylinder walls, inserted 1 ring at a time and pushed it down 1″ with the piston head, then I used a feeler gauge to check the clearance. If the gap was too small I took the ring out and filed it down on the special ring filer tool I borrowed of a friend. I was very careful not to file down too much at a time so I had to do this a few times per ring. I separated the rings into the 4 cylinders and made sure not to mix them up. I used .018″ gap for the top ring and .019″ gap for the 2nd ring, I left the oil rings are left as they were because they did not need any filing.
Here is a great link for info about setting the ring gap by Theoldone
In the picture to the left you can see me using a piston to push down the piston ring currently being gapped. In the picture to the right you can see me checking the gap using a feeler gauge.
In the picture above you can see the piston ring being filed down using this special tool. In the picture to the right you can see my engine block all masked up ready for painting.
I used Dupli-Color Aluminum engine paint to paint the block on the outside to make it look nice and new. This will help from any aluminum corrosion that might happen down the road.
If you enjoyed this post, make sure you subscribe to my RSS feed!







Posted in 










Oh No, not Dupli-Color. I would have Powder Coated. Good luck with it though, looks good so far.
Powder coating is nice but really expensive so for this one just a coat of paint will do.. thanks for reading.
Bart
Just came across this. So Endyn says 0.11-0.12″ end gap for 75.5mm bore. This looks stock though. I’m guessing your 0.18 & 0.19″ end gap is compensating for heat expansion under turbo? How has blow-by been? Curious as I am thinking of going with your specs.
This is what was suggested by a friend of mine that has been building engines for a while now so i followed his advice when going turbo