WonderBart

I was on D-Series.org today looking at some posts and found this interesting one about a Honda Civic Build for Rally Racing. Very interesting build take a look click Here for the link ... Read More

As the title says my 2nd hatchback has been sold and part of the proceeds will go to my Turbo Build Fund. It was fun owning two hatchbacks at once but currently I don't need the 2nd one so it was sold and now I can focus on picking up a D16Z6 1.6 VTEC block and start working on it. I estimate this to be a 6-8 month build just in time for next years drag races at mission and should perform quite good with my projected 250 to 300hp. ... Read More

The bumper and fender swap between the two Civic's was a success, it was quite easy and only a few tools were needed. I pulled the bumpers and fenders off by myself but got some help from a friend to put them all back on. The reason for this swap was that my bumper and fender in my 93 Civic was all dented from rocks but the 95 Civic had a new painted bumper and a fender with only 1 ding. I will post pictures tomorrow as I didn't get a chance to pull them off my camera yet. I also replaced the drivers side headlight on the 95 Civic because it had  a hole in it and the inner reflective part was all rusting away. Check back tomorrow for some before and after pictures. ... Read More

Today I was looking into more turbo installation info and found another great turbo installation writeup that covers everything from start to finish. The more research you do before installing your turbo the better it is so check out this install and get some pointers. Click Here for the link to the Complete How To Turbocharge Your Honda Install. ... Read More

I found a great video on Youtube that shows a race between a Honda Civic EG6 Versus a Mazda RX8. Great race check it out. ... Read More

I got an iPhone last Thursday and I'm really pleased with it with all the features it has. The 3G Internet is really quick, 8GB of storage is plenty for applications, music and movies and since my 1993 Honda Civic doesn't have GPS, this little gadget is perfect for knowing where you are while cruising around the city. I was never really keen on Apple products but this iPhone is one of a kind and I will recommend it to all my friends. The camera works really well and would be perfect for car shows just in case I forgot my Sony Cybershot. Having this phone with me all the time is gonna be perfect now as I can take pictures of any cool looking EG Civic's on the road and later post them on my blog. IPhone GPS + Honda Civic = Better cruising around the city. ... Read More

Have you put put a crap load of your hard earned cash into your Honda Civic? And wanna keep adding more because you love to pimp out your ride. Then you must have an alarm or kill switch of some sort, if you don't then I this is the page for you. You can add a kill switch, start kill or an ignition kill into your car and immobilize it so the common thief can't steal your Civic, otherwise kiss your car goodbye. I found a great site that has all three of these write ups and there easy to understand. Here take a look below. Kill Switch Starter Kill Ignition Kill ... Read More

Club EG6 is a great forum for information about the EG 92-95 Honda Civic and this month D Garage won the Civic of the month award. The car looks clean and sharp as the image below illustrates.  Also here is a link to an interview between CLUBEG6 and D Garage. Click Here for Link ... Read More

Finding great resources can sometimes be really tricky specially when your looking for something really specific.  I found this 62 page manual on the 1992-1995 Honda Civic transmission and thought I would share it with other EG (92-95) Civic enthusiasts that might need it for reference. Click Here for 92-95 Civic Transmission Manual // --> // --> // --> // --> // --> // --> // --> // --> // --> ... Read More

Step 21 - Support the tranny with an extra floor jack and then unbolt it. Tools Needed: 17mm Deep Socket Wrench, Floor Jack, 2x4 Piece of wood. Place a 2nd jack with a piece of 2x4 wood under the tranny. Then get your friend to grab a hold of the rope with some gloves. Once the tranny is supported you can start unbolting the lower front transmission mount using a 17mm socket wrench. Then Tell your friend to hold the rope tight and start unbolting the last 3 top engine mount bolts using a 17mm socket wrench. Step 22 - Grab the tranny and wiggle it left and right to dislodge it of the engine. Tools Needed: Gloves Grab the tranny with your hands and start wiggling it left and right to dislodge it off the engine. Careful not to move the engine to much so it does not fall of the jack support. Once you get the tranny loose, hold it while your friend removes the 2nd jack out of the way and you can slowly lower it to the ground. Click Here to go back to Transmission Removal Step by Step ... Read More

Step 18 - Support engine with a floor jack and piece of 2×4 wood Tools Needed: Floor Jack and a 8-12" Piece of Good 2x4 Wood Position the jack under the engine oil pan, and place a piece of 2x4 between the oil pan and the jack. Then gently raise the jack till the piece of 2x4 is touching the oil pan. Make sure you are not jacking up the engine, all your doing it supporting it so it doesn't drop to the floor when the tranny is dismounted. Step 19 - Wrap some rope around the tranny for added support later Tools Needed: 6-10 feet of nylon rope Wrap the nylon rope around the tranny 2 times for added support later. Make sure it's not going to fall off the tranny so wrap it front to back. Step 20 - Unbolt the rear top transmission mount bolt and the top engine to tranny bolts Tools Needed: 19mm Socket Wrench and 17mm Socket Wrench Unbolt the top rear tranny mount bolt using a 19mm socket wrench. Then take a 17mm socket wrench and unbolt the top four tranny to engine bolts. Keep track where each bolt is from as one of them has a bracket for the oxygen ... Read More

Step 16 - Unbolt the 2 rear bottom transmission mount bolts Tools Needed: 17mm Socket Wrench Use a 17mm socket wrench and unbolt the 2 bottom rear transmission mount bolts.  And then unbolt the engine to transmission bolt that is just to the left. . . Step 17 - Unbolt the bottom engine to transmission bolts Tools Needed: 14mm Socket Wrench Use a 14mm socket wrench and unscrew the front lower engine to transmission bolt. Then unscrew the rear lower 12mm engine to transmission bolt. . . Click Here for Step 18, 19 and 20 ... Read More

Step 14 - Remove the left and right drive shaft from the transmission Tools Needed: Large Flat head screw driver, 17mm Socket Wrench and 17mm Combination Wrench Unbolt the the damper fork bolt using a 17mm socket wrench and a 17mm combination wrench. Check to make sure the steering knuckle is dismounted of the lower ball joint and then pull out the outer CV joint out of the hub spine. Then use a large flat screw driver and help pry the inner CV joint out of the transmission while pulling it toward the outside of the vehicle. By prying the CV joint out I mean slide the screw driver between the transmission and the inner CV joint and gently try to dislodge the CV joint from the transmission but be careful not to damage the transmission seal. The shorter passenger drive shaft should be easier to do but the longer drivers side might require some help from a friend. Your friend can pull on the shaft and help support it while you try to dislodge it out of the transmission. Repeat the process above  to remove both drive shafts. Step 15 - Unbolt and disconnect the shifter support linkage Tools Needed: 12mm Combination Wrench, Flat Screwdriver, ... Read More

Since my drag down the Mission Raceway and the hunger for a faster 1/4 mile time, I started to do lots of research on turbo's and how all the pieces come together. Well last night my friend Tracey came with me to wash my Civic since I haven't washed it in a few weeks. After it was clean I took it for a drive to dry off and ended up at 7-Eleven. I told her that I would buy her a Slurpee for helping me wash my car, so she went down the slurpee aisle and I headed down to the magazines.  I flipped thru a bunch of magazines then suddenly one just popped out at me, the Super Street magazine. Super Street magazine has an issue out right now that has a great writeup on how turbos work and what you need to get the whole package running.  This is exactly what I was looking for as in the next few weeks I will do some research and write up some posts on how a I can integrate a turbo into my Civic. ... Read More

Step 12 - Unscrew the main drive shaft nut on the left and right side of the car Tools Needed: 1-1/4" Socket,  Breaker Bar or Heavy Duty Impact Gun, Propane Torch, Chisel, Hammer, WD-40 Use a chisel and a hammer to undo the locking tabs on the driveshaft nut. Then spray the threads of the nut with WD-40. After the WD-40 has had time to sock into the threads take a 1-1/4" socket and a breaker bar or a heavy duty impact gun and unscrew the drive shaft nut. If it doesn't want to let go try heating it up with a propane torch, then quickly try unscrewing it. Don't give up as sometimes the nut may be harder to get off from road grim and dirt that has made it's way inside the threads. Step 13 - Unscrew the lower ball joint nut and pull the ball joint off the control arm on each side Tools Needed: Needle Nose Pliers, 17mm Combination Wrench, WD-40. Ball joint puller Grab your needle nose pliers and fold back the ends of the cotter pin that is inside the lower ball joint threads. Once the cotter pin is straight grab the back side and pull it out. Use some WD-40 to spray the threads of the lower ball joint then unscrew the ... Read More

Step 7 - Remove the starter Tools Needed: 17mm Socket Wrench with long extension and 12mm Combination Wrench Unscrew the positive lead at the back of the starter with a 12mm combination wrench and using your hand pull of the solenoid lead. Next unscrew the 12mm wire harness bracket of the starter and put the bolt back to into it's spot not to loose it. Next unscrew the two 17mm bolts holding the starter in place. Once all that is done you should be able to use the back of a hammer to tap the starter gently and I mean gently and remove it. Step 8 - Disconnect all electrical plugs on the transmission side of the engine Tools Needed: Flat Screw Driver Step 1 is to unplug the speedo sending unit on the back part of the tranny. Step 2 is to unplug the 2 sensors that are right under the distributor mounting area. Step 3 is to unplug the oxygen sensor after taking it of the metal mounting bracket. Step 4 is to unplug the 3 main wire harness plugs on the left side of the engine compartment. You have to pull them of the metal mounting bracket before splitting the plugs. Once you've done all 4 steps you should be able to pull ... Read More

Step 5 - Remove the radiator with connecting hoses Tools Needed: 10mm Socket Wrench and Large Pliers Unscrew the 10mm bolt from the front radiator bracket with a 10mm socket wrench. Then use large pliers to undo the 2 hose clamps from the radiator hoses that are on the engine. Then grab the hoses and twist them left to right until you manage to pull them off. Then pull the reservoir container up and out of the way and put it on the side and also unplug the fan plug which is in the same location. Once all this is done you can pull the whole radiator assembly up and out of the car. Step 6 - Remove the distributor Tools Needed: 12mm Socket Wrench with Extension Pull all 4 of the spark plug cables out of the top of the engine and place them on top of the rocker cover freely. Then use a flat head screw driver and place a mark across the top of the distributor flange to the engine head to mark how the distributor was positioned as far as ignition timing is concerned. Grab a 12mm Socket wrench with an extension and unscrew all 3 distributor mounting bolts. Take a clean dry cloth and insert it into the distributor hole on the head once you pull the distributor ... Read More

After friday night's Mission Raceway drag racing event, I put a 360 spin on my idea of doing the bodywork first and instead will invest the time into a turbo setup. Before I actually go through with it, I will do some research and post what I come up with. My Goal is around 200HP with my stock D16 engine. So far this is what i believe will I need, but this may change. - Hondata S300 Engine Management - AEM UEGO WideBand A/F Controller with Gauge - RC 330 Fuel Injectors (if going over 190HP) - Walbro 255 Fuel Pump - eBay Turbo Kit Now your thinking why buy my turbo kit from eBay? Well I figure if there are any mistakes that I might encounter it's cheaper to do them on a cheaper turbo, I can always upgrade the turbo later.   ... Read More

This is my first drag race video at Mission Raceway with my 1993 Honda Civic. The video of the 16.40 quarter mile time was too shaky so this one will do. The time was 16.54 @ 85MPH for quarter mile. ... Read More

I did my first Mission Raceway event today and it was a success. I did 4 runs down the drag strip and my best time was 16.401 @ 85.68MPH and reaction time of .726. I was told that the reaction time is only used if your racing against someone else and does not matter to your quarter mile time but I will have to investigate this farther so this may be wrong. I will post a video soon as I can get it on youtube. Here is my timeslip results for this race. R/T  ... .726 60' ... 2.610 330 ... 7.010 1/8 ... 10.627 MPH ... 67.34 1000 ...13.778 1/4 ... 16.401 MPH ... 85.68   ... Read More