WonderBart

It's been 2 months since I did the engine swap on my car and I love it every bit. It's got more power, better response, less oil usage and looks good too. The D16 engine and the Si tranny works really good together in my little hatch. The Power to Weight ratio is really nice, its got lots of GO when you need it. Anyone out there wondering if they should do this swap or any other to add more power to their ride I say go for it, its worth every penny! The fuel economey is almost similar, I might of lost 50km per tank but it all depends how hungry you get for VTECH at 5000rpms. ... Read More

I found another thread on an engine swap but this one has a lot of detail on what was done to the engine and how things were done so it will be a great reference point when I start to build up my turbo engine. Sonny 1st Gen CRX ... Read More

After all that work yesterday I knew I would find a solution soon because I was running out of things to check. Today I went to the parts store and picked up some new NGK spark plugs, NGK ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter and a radiator cap since my old one disintegrated yesterday. I started by changing the plugs and then started the engine and guess what to my surprise BAAM! engine runs fine, so it was a fauled up plug that was causing all these issues. I still changed the fuel filter, iginition wires and distributor cap and rotor as it had to be done in the near future anyways. The spark plugs I got are the NGK ZFR5J-11 which seem to work really well with this engine. It runs smoth now and has lots of power and I'm not even activating the VTEC yet! The only thing I have left is to wire up the VTEC and bolt up the front bottom engine cover but thats not even an issue. Old D15B7 Engine and the new D16A VTEC Engine All my replacement parts and a picture of the new NGK wires on my valve cover. ... Read More

The car still stumbled today at WOT so I swapped the throttle body which included the MAP Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor but unfortunetly it still stumbled after that. Just to be sure there was no difference in the IACV I also swapped the IACV(Idle Air Control Valve) from my D15B7 to be sure that had nothing to do with the issue. I checked my timing and it was ok so I swapped the fuel injectors and the fuel pressure regulator but no success. Tommorrow I am gonna do a tuneup on it and change the spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor and finally the fuel filter. I got a compression tester today so I can check the compression of all the pistons tommorrow too.    ... Read More

It's been a few days since my last post but I have been researching information about my ECU, VTEC and why my engine surges while giving it gas. My first ECU was giving me code 19 which was an auto tranny sensor, so today I went to the wrecker and picked up a proper 5 Speed ECU and a VTEC Pressure switch. My first ECU was P28-C50(auto) the new one is a P28-C02(5 Speed), to identify your ECU go to Rywire.com, as they have a write up page on how to identify your ECU. They sell wiring harnesses for VTEC D16Z6 Swap, B, H and other Wiring harnesses that you might need for a custom swap and they also have a great writeup on how to wire up your VTEC to your ECU. My VTEC should be operational soon as I got the pressure switch today so it's just a matter of feeding the cables from the plugs to my ECU. My car has been idling kinda funny and stumbling when given light throttle; I did some research about this and found out that it could be a case air pockets in my coolant or a bad or dirty IACV ... Read More

Saturday - Final assembly, fluids and startup Today I started with hooking up the gear shift linkage and mounted the exhaust. Then I mounted the drive shafts and put the suspension back together. I hooked up the remainder of the heater hoses and mounted the radiator and then filled it with antifreeze and water mix. I drained the old oil from the engine and transmission and then added 10W30 to both. I pulled the old P06 ECU out and then mounted the P28(VTEC) ECU in it's place. Then the moment of truth came and it was time to start the engine, I turned the key to the start position 2 times shortly to prime the engine with gas and pump some oil into the top end of the engine. Then I turned the key to the full start position and BAAM! it started right away. Only problem was the ECU was throwing out some error codes. I read in the Haynes Manual that you have to put a jumper into the 2 wire plug that is just below the glove box on the passenger side of the car so I did that and got 2 error codes. Code 22 and Code ... Read More

Friday - Ready engine and mount up in engine bay Today I got the engine ready for mounting and decided to use my original D15B7 engine mount and bracket. The power steering bracket on the other hand is one that I got from the wrecker from a D16Z6 engine. Installing the engine back into the car took a lot of patience I had a friend of mine work the hoist while I moved the engine around and started bolting up the mounts. Before lowering the engine into the engine bay I attached the rear engine bracket to the engine, then got my friend to lower the engine into place while I worked the bolt to catch some thread. After that I worked the tranny mount and got a bolt thru that and finally had to use a floor jack to help align the drivers side mount and stuck a bolt thru that. Once the main mounts were done I installed the left and right torque mounts, power steering pump and some hoses. Tommorrow the plan is to finish her up and get her running. D16A chained up and ready installation D16A in the process of being installed D16A almost installed D16A ... Read More

Thursday - D16A Maintenance and external assembly So far out of the 4 days, today was the funnest till the end but I'll get into that later. Putting something together is always more fun because you start seeing a little glimps of your final product and you get more existed. Today I started by taking the JDM exhaust manifold off as it is different from mine so I can't use it. Then I mounted the flywheel and new clutch, and finally bolted up the transmission. I did some maintenance on the engine too and replaced the thermostat, PCV Valve and new oil filter. After that I mounted my old wire harness including fuel injectors with the fuel rail, alternator and starter. Most of the plugs were easy but one thing I noticed was that I did not have a Purge Valve on this engine so I will have to reuse my old one from my D15B7 and just add it to my vacuum lines. I cleaned off the old throttle body gasket from the intake and then bolted on the throttle body and and connected all the appropriate hoses. Toward the end of the day I started screwing back all the ... Read More

Tuesday - Ready old engine for extraction First thing in the morning I dropped off the Flywheel for machining and headed to Princess Auto for some oil drain pans and some other items. To start the engine removal process I jacked up the car and put it on stands ready for drive shaft removal. Taking both the axle nuts off was actually pretty easy but when I got to the lower ball joints is when the trouble started. I worked on those for a couple of hours but had no success so I decided to do something different. I took the top of the suspension off including the struts and managed to get both the axles off. The drivers side CV boot was already cracked so grease was everywhere but I am glad it broke on my stock wheels and not my new mags. After that I drained the coolant from the engine and took the radiator out and started to work on the electrical plugs and hoses. I found out that to separate the main plugs on both the left and right side I had to take them off the mounting brackets. Toward the end of the night I managed ... Read More

Monday - Get parts and prep the new engine I started the day by calling around for parts, organizing my tools and figuring what I had to do first. Then I went to MOPAC and picked up a Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch and Coquitlam AutoParts for the water pump, timing belt and pilot bearing. By the time I got started it was already 3pm so there was no time to waste. While changing the water pump and timing belt I ran into a problem taking off the main crankshaft bolt even with my heavy duty impact wrench. So I sprayed the bolt with lube and went onto unbolting the transmission. Pulling the tranny was pretty easy with the engine out, so in no time at all I had the whole clutch assembly apart. I went back to the front of the engine and this time I heated up the crankshaft pulley bolt and managed to get it off. The rest of the water pump and timing belt was a snap just bolt everything back on. After that I noticed that the throttle plate was really dirty so I pulled the whole throttle body of the intake and cleaned it up with ... Read More

It's a great start to 2008 as I have acquired a JDM D16A VTEC Engine with only 80,000KM's. It came with an Si tranny, Distributor and the P28 ECU. The plan is to change the timming belt, water pump and to replace the stock clutch with a Center Force 2 Clutch, Bearing and Pressure plate to get a better grip on the newly added horsepower. With this new engine, Short Ram Intake and my 2.5" exhaust I should be putting out 135-140HP now so laying rubber should be easy to do, and maybe get 2nd gear chirps. I took a picture of the engine with my cell phone but the lighting wasn't the best so the picture is a bit grainy but here it is the D16A VTEC. As you'll notice the valve cover is silver but down the road I will pull it off and get it powder coated cherry apple red to match the car. ... Read More

I was jumping on the web again today and found a red civic hatch just like mine that has already been fixed up, although he has a bigger engine then mine it still looks good with the body kit and tint. 94 Civic Hatch ... Read More

Found an older EK (88-91) Civic that is boosted on a D16Z6 motor with SRP pistons, eagle rods, block gaurd, turbo tronics turbo charger, edelbrock intake and more, very nice 1/4 mile times too. EK Civic ... Read More

I found a nice EG(92-95) Red Civic Hatch just like mine that has a B16A with a Turbonetics turbo and a nice intercooler on turbocivic.com. Check it out. EGBoost ... Read More

I found an article of a K20A2 engine from a 2001-2006 Acura RSX engine being swapped into a 1978 Honda Civic. The K20A2 is a DOHC VTEC engine with 11:1 compression ratio and 200HP / 142ft/lbs. So adding this powerful engine into a car from 1978 of such less weight would be it fly. 1978 CIVIC Swap ... Read More

I found this great writeup on how to protect your engine block by a process similar to a block guard. This is called Block Posting, check out this write up it's great. Block Posting ... Read More

Money doesn't fall from trees so getting what your paying for is important, specially when doing an engine swap. I found a post on D-Series forum today about the pricing between doing a D series motor and a B series motor swap here take a look. Swap link. ... Read More

I found writeups on B Series and D Series honda engines on wikipedia and so far i got that B Series are more expensive to build then D Series but besides that it's still hard to choose, ether the B16A 160HP or the D16Z6 125HP. Now the B16A has more HP but cost might be a problem. Time to do more research. ... Read More

I found this great B Series Honda engine writeup by Honda Tuning Magazine. It goes into detail about how to mod these engines and what parts are great to swap in the B series for most power. ... Read More

Found a post on a forum about an engine swap on a 1978 Civic CVCC. It's getting a B16A1 engine from a 87-89 Integra ... Read More