If your trying to find a special ECU for your Custom Honda Civic Build or just looking for a replacement, its good to know what your looking for.
Well RyWire has a great page that give you all the info you’ll need. Click Here to see the ECU Identifying page.
My friend’s car broke down this morning and her engine light came on but being a newer car she needs an ODB2 reader to find out what’s wrong with it. This got me thinking about the possible ODB1 engine error codes that the engine light in a Civic would show if you had a problem. So I made a table below of the possible engine error codes that a 1992-1995 Civic owner could encounter. These codes are easily readable by the number of flashes made by the engine light in diagnostic mode.
To get into diagnostic mode you have to short out the diagnostic plug that is under the right side of the glow box. This is a green 2 wire plug that should be in a rubber sleeve. Make sure your ignition is in the OFF position, then pull the plug out of the sleeve and short the two pins with a small wire. Then turn your ignition to the “II” position and count the number of flashes.
You might encounter long flashes or short flashes, each long flash means 10 and each short flash means 1. So if you get 2 long flashes and 2 short flashes, your error code is 22 - VTEC Pressure Valve Switch. If you get 3 short flashes this means error code 3 – MAP Sensor malfunction. Read your engine error code and use the table below to find out what’s wrong. Once your done turn off your ignition and pull the wire out and put the plug back into the protecting rubber sleeve and tuck it back under the glove box.
1 – O2A – Oxygen sensor #1
2 – O2B – Oxygen sensor #2
3 – MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 – CKP – crank position sensor
5 – MAP – manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 – ECT – water temperature sensor
7 – TPS – throttle position sensor
8 – TDC – top dead centre sensor
9 – CYP – cylinder sensor
10 – IAT – intake air temperature sensor
12 – EGR – exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 – BARO – atmospheric pressure sensor
14 – IAC (EACV) – idle air control valve
15 – Ignition output signal
16 – Fuel injectors
17 – VSS – speed sensor
19 – Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 – Electrical load detector
21 – VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 – VTEC pressure valve Switch
23 – Knock sensor
30 – Automatic transmission A signal
31 – Automatic transmission B signal
36 – Traction control found on JDM ecu’s
41 – Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 – Fuel supply system
45 – Fuel system too rich or lean
48 – LAF – lean air fuel sensor
54 – CKF – crank fluctuation sensor
58 – TDC sensor #2
61 – Primary oxygen sensor
63 – Secondary oxygen sensor
65 – Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 – Random misfire cylinder 1
72 – Random misfire cylinder 2
73 – Random misfire cylinder 3
74 – Random misfire cylinder 4
80 – Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 – ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 – Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 – Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 – Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow
I had a comment posted by a fellow reader which informed me of 2 other ECU Tuning ways you could go, one is eCtune (Comperable to Hondata) and the other is PGMFI.com (open-source ECU development). Once I really get into the ECU tuning part of my car build I will make sure I look up both of those websites out and find out the best one for me to use.
Found another ECU Programing company that will do all Hondata Setups for a price. Phearable.net
I also found a good beginners guide to ECU Tunning. Beginners Guide.
I found a very informative link about programming your ECU and from what i got was that if your running a turbo or any kind of boost its better to program your ECU to work with it, instead your stock ECU working against it.
Here is another link to a guy that will add a chip to your OBD-1 ECU for $75.
